A Gentlemen's Guide to Stays

Every gentleman should make himself familiar with that article of small cloathing known as stays. While they may appear to be of the exclusive realm of woman, nature intended all men to love beauty and therefore all men should become familiar with these excellent devices.

Afterall, they are the device that gives the woman the perfect line of beauty, grace and deportment and benefits the landscape with the soft serenity of women's perfect figures.

For those gentlemen who have not yet the fortune to be intimately associated with stays in detail, a brief description is required. Collected from the notes of a celebrated lady of distinction are the following

Stays: A Laced underbodice stiffened by the insertion of strips of whalebone, metal or wood. The use of the plural is due to the fact that Stays were originally, as they still are, made in 2 pieces laced together.

Jumps: A type of underbodice worn by women, usually fitted to the bust, often used instead of stays. From 1740 on commonly used in plural from (a pair of jumps). "now a shape in neat stays, now a slattern in jumps" Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume, 1762. "These springs are for ladies jumps who do not choose to wear hard incommodious stays." Patent, 1784.

In addition our celebrated lady gives us this essential description from a work entitled: "An Elegant Art".

".....a lady, supported by her corset, led with her bosom. In this status-conscious century, corsets instantly proclaimed class distinction. The more severe the cut and boning of a lady's corset, the higher the ladies class, provided that is was worn with apparent ease. It could not be laced too tightly, lest it produce a stiff posture and awkward movement which were both inelegant and endurable. Actually, when correctly worn, the corset did most of the body display work for the lady. Boned high in the back, it flattened the shoulder blades which, in turn, rounded and forced back the shoulders, resulting in a fashionably narrow back and uplifted or 'prominent' bosom."

At this point it is prudent to familiarize the gentleman with the ever important bosom. The examination of stays are essential whilst they rest upon a warm breathing female form. To study them under any other condition is impractical as the shape's precise magnificence is expounded by the delicate heaving of a breast and rhythm of the intake of breath.

The bosom from a distance is an indication of a lady's proper stature. Unfortunately this seems to be a particular dilemma among many ladies outside the circle of the Lickerish Club and its sphere of influence, where both bad poise and unnecessary modern modesty, impede the path to the true glory of the female form. One must remember that in the 18th century, society did not have the ridiculous breast fixation that it does today.

Therefore it is most essential that praise is offered to ye venerable Nymphs, whom elastick spirits prompt to propagate the joys of a stay laced figure. Naturally it is highly advised that all gentlemen examine this form in close detail.

By praising the whole fashion as the object of mankind's highest regards, one is not only flattering the worthy, he is also proclaiming to all what is decorous and right. As our lady mentor also points out in the work "Eighteenth Century Clothing at Colonial Williamsburg." Stays are very much a proper part of the female uniform:

"The wearing of stays was as much linked to concepts of modesty and support as it was to figure shape; without her stays for most public occasions, a woman was considered not quite properly dressed at best and a 'loose woman' at worst."

Persist then all gentlemen! Persist in the cause of keeping; in that you shew yourselves friend of charity, virtue and state; continue to shower those deserving of the praise and encourage those who have yet to learn of the benefits of stays. Persist in blotting out the antagonist who insists that stays are unnecessary for it is these deviants that spread the cancer of bad ideas, that ultimately lead to slovenly women and broken forms. What villainies do they encourage? What plots and combinations do they dream of with their crooked stayless backs? The mighty call should be obeyed and all ladies be held in a warm soft regard for the attention paid to their pretty postures.

As it has been presented, our lives and health benefit from the image of a corseted body. Yet, while most gentlemen agree that such a prodigal object is as perfect a thing as nature could itself create, most gentlemen know not how to handle control these puzzling instruments. To ask a man the secrets of lacing and unlacing stays is met with either sneering ridicule, indignant questioning, or a withdrawn escape. This is due in part by the common thought that such matters are exclusively the realm of women. Gentlemen have no place in the administration of such feminine articles. However, this could not be further from the truth.

How many instances of disaster have been reported due to the sole reason a man did not know the simple method of cutting or quick unlacing of the stays? Can not sudden calamity at any moment call upon the skills of quick fingers? How many of our fair ones have sat for hours in silent discomfort because a husband did not know the secrets lacing his lady's stays?

As we consider these important questions it becomes more apparent that our moral duties as gentlemen are to know more about the elusive pair of stays, in particular the art of the lace. But, for so many gentlemen we must add the question, "where does one begin?"

This being the dilemma before us it is most generous that there are those of us who have taken the care to learn the secrets of every lace hole and every stitch on the bodice. And, as it would be inhumane to deny this from publick knowledge let us then share our discoveries. It is the the universal benefit of mankind that these secrets be shared for; not only the comfort and safety of all womankind maintained but, all men for their mutual education.

It is important to first realize that the stay lace herself is an article that should be regarded as important an item, in terms of being a symbol of affiliation, as a gift of ribbon. However, unlike a ribbon which is simply a favour, the staylace has a functional dignity. Therefore, all gentlemen should be learned in the right style and strength of cord; and just as he should carry a bit of ribbon in case a lady has lost her garter; he should carry a length of the stuff suitable for lacing a ladies stays. There are rare instances that theirs may break or become knotted in which case a gentleman can display some gallantry and produce for his lady a solution to her dilemma.

Naturally the lady will need some assistance in relacing herself. It has been known to have been done by oneself but more often than not, a lady has the convenience of her chambermaid close at hand. Yet, still the gentleman's services may be called upon at any time and one must imagine the awkwardness of a man who can produce the stay lace but knows not the art and science of lacing the stays themselves.

The secret as shown in the figures to the right shows how the lacing is performed. In commencing the stays are looped in a particular fashion. Then as each hole is filled the length of the cord is laced by wrapping around in one direction. Finishing properly is important for if done incorrectly the stay segments will not be symmetrical and cause discomfort.

Stays should not be tied to tightly. Their purpose is to support the form and not to constrict it. The mystery of stays often eludes that a stiff and ridged lacing can only benefit the lady. This is a folly and only contributes to distress and ill health. Stays should only be tied as tightly as will hold them together firmly whilst allowing a woman a free and easy movement.

There is no doubt that a man has room in his pocket for a cord of staylace, but a man should also carry a small knife for among other useful reasons, as a measure to guard against emergency. When a lady swoons or is in such discomfort that her stays are incommodious then she should be freed of them immediately. The knife must then be produced and swiftly but without harm to the lady, slashed at the laces until she is free. Naturally her consent to such a bold act is preferred. However, often in this situation, time is an essence and the difference between injury and aid. If the stays are laced properly the cutting is effected in seconds and while the gentleman has an extra lace he may offer it to the lady so that she may be retied and once again dressed to take her proper place in the stage of life.

Thus with these essential specifics on the enigmatic stays, so shall the publick be invigorated not only by the comfort of erudition but in the repose of the image of a properly tied lady. Virtue is then promoted, safety is maintained, and hateful broken bodies left to the toils and caverns of only the lowest stations in society.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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