Every gentleman should make
himself familiar with that article of small cloathing known as
stays. While they may appear to be of the exclusive realm of woman,
nature intended all men to love beauty and therefore all men should
become familiar with these excellent devices.
Afterall, they are the device
that gives the woman the perfect line of beauty, grace and deportment
and benefits the landscape with the soft serenity of women's perfect
figures.
For those gentlemen who have not
yet the fortune to be intimately associated with stays in detail,
a brief description is required. Collected from the notes of a
celebrated lady of distinction are the following
Stays: A Laced underbodice
stiffened by the insertion of strips of whalebone, metal or wood.
The use of the plural is due to the fact that Stays were originally,
as they still are, made in 2 pieces laced together.
Jumps: A type of
underbodice worn by women, usually fitted to the bust, often used
instead of stays. From 1740 on commonly used in plural from (a
pair of jumps). "now a shape in neat stays, now a slattern
in jumps" Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume, 1762. "These
springs are for ladies jumps who do not choose to wear hard incommodious
stays." Patent, 1784.
In addition our celebrated lady
gives us this essential description from a work entitled: "An
Elegant Art".
".....a lady, supported
by her corset, led with her bosom. In this status-conscious century,
corsets instantly proclaimed class distinction. The more severe
the cut and boning of a lady's corset, the higher the ladies class,
provided that is was worn with apparent ease. It could not be
laced too tightly, lest it produce a stiff posture and awkward
movement which were both inelegant and endurable. Actually, when
correctly worn, the corset did most of the body display work for
the lady. Boned high in the back, it flattened the shoulder blades
which, in turn, rounded and forced back the shoulders, resulting
in a fashionably narrow back and uplifted or 'prominent' bosom."
At this point it is prudent to
familiarize the gentleman with the ever important bosom. The examination
of stays are essential whilst they rest upon a warm breathing
female form. To study them under any other condition is impractical
as the shape's precise magnificence is expounded by the delicate
heaving of a breast and rhythm of the intake of breath.
The bosom from a distance is an
indication of a lady's proper stature. Unfortunately this seems
to be a particular dilemma among many ladies outside the circle
of the Lickerish Club and its sphere of influence, where both
bad poise and unnecessary modern modesty, impede the path to the
true glory of the female form. One must remember that in the 18th
century, society did not have the ridiculous breast fixation that
it does today.
Therefore it is most essential
that praise is offered to ye venerable Nymphs, whom elastick spirits
prompt to propagate the joys of a stay laced figure. Naturally
it is highly advised that all gentlemen examine this form in close
detail.
By praising the whole fashion
as the object of mankind's highest regards, one is not only flattering
the worthy, he is also proclaiming to all what is decorous and
right. As our lady mentor also points out in the work "Eighteenth
Century Clothing at Colonial Williamsburg." Stays are very
much a proper part of the female uniform:
"The wearing of stays
was as much linked to concepts of modesty and support as it was
to figure shape; without her stays for most public occasions,
a woman was considered not quite properly dressed at best and
a 'loose woman' at worst."
Persist then all gentlemen! Persist
in the cause of keeping; in that you shew yourselves friend of
charity, virtue and state; continue to shower those deserving
of the praise and encourage those who have yet to learn of the
benefits of stays. Persist in blotting out the antagonist who
insists that stays are unnecessary for it is these deviants that
spread the cancer of bad ideas, that ultimately lead to slovenly
women and broken forms. What villainies do they encourage? What
plots and combinations do they dream of with their crooked stayless
backs? The mighty call should be obeyed and all ladies be held
in a warm soft regard for the attention paid to their pretty postures.
As it has been presented, our
lives and health benefit from the image of a corseted body. Yet,
while most gentlemen agree that such a prodigal object is as perfect
a thing as nature could itself create, most gentlemen know not
how to handle control these puzzling instruments. To ask a man
the secrets of lacing and unlacing stays is met with either sneering
ridicule, indignant questioning, or a withdrawn escape. This is
due in part by the common thought that such matters are exclusively
the realm of women. Gentlemen have no place in the administration
of such feminine articles. However, this could not be further
from the truth.
How many instances of disaster
have been reported due to the sole reason a man did not know the
simple method of cutting or quick unlacing of the stays? Can not
sudden calamity at any moment call upon the skills of quick fingers?
How many of our fair ones have sat for hours in silent discomfort
because a husband did not know the secrets lacing his lady's stays?
As we consider these important
questions it becomes more apparent that our moral duties as gentlemen
are to know more about the elusive pair of stays, in particular
the art of the lace. But, for so many gentlemen we must add the
question, "where does one begin?"
This being the dilemma before
us it is most generous that there are those of us who have taken
the care to learn the secrets of every lace hole and every stitch
on the bodice. And, as it would be inhumane to deny this from
publick knowledge let us then share our discoveries. It is the
the universal benefit of mankind that these secrets be shared
for; not only the comfort and safety of all womankind maintained
but, all men for their mutual education.
It is important to first realize
that the stay lace herself is an article that should be regarded
as important an item, in terms of being a symbol of affiliation,
as a gift of ribbon. However, unlike a ribbon which is simply
a favour, the staylace has a functional dignity. Therefore, all
gentlemen should be learned in the right style and strength of
cord; and just as he should carry a bit of ribbon in case a lady
has lost her garter; he should carry a length of the stuff suitable
for lacing a ladies stays. There are rare instances that theirs
may break or become knotted in which case a gentleman can display
some gallantry and produce for his lady a solution to her dilemma.
Naturally the lady will need some
assistance in relacing herself. It has been known to have been
done by oneself but more often than not, a lady has the convenience
of her chambermaid close at hand. Yet, still the gentleman's services
may be called upon at any time and one must imagine the awkwardness
of a man who can produce the stay lace but knows not the art and
science of lacing the stays themselves.
The secret as shown in the figures
to the right shows how the lacing is performed. In commencing
the stays are looped in a particular fashion. Then as each hole
is filled the length of the cord is laced by wrapping around in
one direction. Finishing properly is important for if done incorrectly
the stay segments will not be symmetrical and cause discomfort.
Stays should not be tied to tightly.
Their purpose is to support the form and not to constrict it.
The mystery of stays often eludes that a stiff and ridged lacing
can only benefit the lady. This is a folly and only contributes
to distress and ill health. Stays should only be tied as tightly
as will hold them together firmly whilst allowing a woman a free
and easy movement.
There is no doubt that a man has
room in his pocket for a cord of staylace, but a man should also
carry a small knife for among other useful reasons, as a measure
to guard against emergency. When a lady swoons or is in such discomfort
that her stays are incommodious then she should be freed of them
immediately. The knife must then be produced and swiftly but without
harm to the lady, slashed at the laces until she is free. Naturally
her consent to such a bold act is preferred. However, often in
this situation, time is an essence and the difference between
injury and aid. If the stays are laced properly the cutting is
effected in seconds and while the gentleman has an extra lace
he may offer it to the lady so that she may be retied and once
again dressed to take her proper place in the stage of life.
Thus with these essential specifics
on the enigmatic stays, so shall the publick be invigorated not
only by the comfort of erudition but in the repose of the image
of a properly tied lady. Virtue is then promoted, safety is maintained,
and hateful broken bodies left to the toils and caverns of only
the lowest stations in society.