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WEEK-5 GAINSBOROUGH,
Sir Thomas (1727-1788) "The Mall" 1783
Here's what Encyclopedia
Britannica has to say about this picture:
"A new venture
in 1783 was The Mall in St. James' Park, a park scene
described by Horace Walpole as all a flutter like a lady's
fan. The Morning
Walk, with romanticized figures strolling in a landscape,
is painted in the
same spirit. The fancy pictures painted in the 1780s gave
Gainsborough
particular pleasure.
The detailed
images that made it worth looking at this painting
(unfortunately missing the centre grouping) come from Aileen
Ribeiro's new
edition of _Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe_. Here are
some of the
things she has to say:
" For those
not involved in the supervision of servants, a fashionable
deshabille or undress could be worn in the parks and gardens
that every city
possessed and that were places to display the latest styles.
In London, St.
James's Park and especially the Mall were places in which
to be seen
walking. Jacob Friedrich von Bielfield found the dress of
the ladies in the
Mall "extremely neat; instead of a large hoop, they
have short pettycoats;
their gowns are elegant but not gaudy; they have short cloaks
trimd with
lace and little hats either of straw or beaver or els feathers
in their hair
(Bielfield 1768-1770, v.4)" When dressed for the day,
a hooped, formal open
robe would have been worn, suitable for all occasions except
appearance a
tthe opera, formal assembly or court." (175)
Caption from
full painting (176): "This is the painting that Awlpole
aptly
described as 'all a-flutter like a lady's fan'. The floating
layers of silk
gauze for the dresses emphasize the soft, rounded outline
of the fashionable
lady."
Caption from
Left Girls and Right Group (222): "In these details
from
Gainsborough's "The Mall", the light silk dresses
eiether trail on the
ground or are bunched up at the back and sides."
Caption from
Right Couple (225): "In this back view of a fashionable
woman,
the floating layers of the drapery are fastened up in the
jaunty triple
loops of the polonaise."
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